Barbados

The Island Made Of Coral, Not Volcano

Almost every island in the eastern Caribbean is the top of a volcano. Barbados is not. It is a limestone cap pushed up out of the sea, which is why it has no dramatic peaks, why the interior rolls gently through cane fields, why there are caves underneath it and why the sand is that particular pale coral white. It also sits further east than its neighbours, out in the Atlantic on its own, which is why it is usually outside the worst of the storm tracks and why the flights from Europe are so good. Geology explains most of what makes this island different.

The planning decision: west, south or east

The west coast, still called the Platinum Coast, is flat calm Caribbean water, the grand hotels, the villa estates around Sandy Lane and Holetown, and the highest prices on the island. The south coast, around St Lawrence Gap and Christ Church, is livelier, better value, with more surf, more bars and a younger feel. The east coast at Bathsheba faces the open Atlantic and is spectacular, wild and not for swimming, which makes it a drive rather than a base. West for a calm luxury week, south for energy and value, and the island is small enough to see all of it either way.

Season, and the calendar

December through April is the dry season and the peak, with the whole island at its best and rates to match. May and June are quieter with short showers. Hurricane season runs June to November, and while Barbados's eastern position means it is less often hit than the islands to the northwest, it is not immune. Crop Over, the summer festival that ends in the Grand Kadooment parade in early August, is the biggest event of the year and completely changes the island for a fortnight. The Barbados Food and Rum Festival in October is the other date worth knowing.

Where to base, and getting around

Grantley Adams International is one of the best connected airports in the eastern Caribbean, with direct flights from London, New York, Miami, Toronto and much of the region, which is a real advantage. The island is about twenty one miles by fourteen, so nothing is more than an hour away. A car is worth having for a few days to see the east coast and the interior. Bridgetown, the capital, has a working harbour and a UNESCO listed historic centre that most beach visitors never look at.

Stay strategy

Sandy Lane is the address, and has been since the fifties, with three golf courses and a level of formality that either appeals or does not. Coral Reef Club and The Sandpiper, both family owned and next to each other, are the more personal west coast alternatives with real loyalty. Cobblers Cove is small, English in feel and quietly excellent. The O2 Beach Club on the south coast is the strong modern option at a different price. And the villa market on the west coast is one of the best in the Caribbean, with staffed houses that make far more sense for a family than adjoining suites.

When to begin

Six to nine months for the winter, and a full year for Christmas and New Year on the west coast, where the same families book their same weeks. Three to four months in the shoulder. Restaurant tables at the handful of leading kitchens, particularly on Friday and Saturday in season, should be booked with the accommodation. The Oistins fish fry on a Friday night needs no booking and is one of the best evenings on the island.

Four experiences worth building the days around

• Swimming with turtles off the west coast on a catamaran or a private boat, early before the day fleet arrives.
• The east coast at Bathsheba, where the Atlantic has left boulders standing in the surf, then lunch inland.
• Oistins on a Friday night, which is where the whole island eats grilled fish.
• A rum distillery with real history, Mount Gay or St Nicholas Abbey, the latter a Jacobean plantation house with a steam railway.

Who this trip suits

Barbados suits families and multi generational groups better than almost any Caribbean island, because the villas are good, the flights are direct and the infrastructure is deep. It suits food travellers, golfers, and anyone who wants a beach week with a real country underneath it rather than only resorts.

When another plan may fit better

If you want dramatic scenery, rainforest and hiking, St Lucia has all of it and Barbados has none. If you want a tiny, quiet, high end island, Anguilla or Nevis are more that. And if you are coming for a party, know that the south coast and the west coast are two entirely different holidays.

Plan it with one accountable advisor

Tell us who is travelling and whether this is a villa week or a hotel week, and we will place you on the right coast with the tables and the boat already held. Our luxury leisure travel planning covers it, and our group travel planning is built for family villa weeks.